Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Blackstone - 142

Blackstone Winery is one that is prevalent in grocery stores -- at least their black label has been oft-seen by yours truly. Because of it, I was not necessarily looking forward to the visit, thinking I would be subjected to sub-standard grocery store plonk. However, there is a significantly larger production going on with a different label: Gold instead of Black.

While the winery produces the standards; Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, etc., I made a point of requesting tastings on those varietals not often seen in California tasting rooms. Looking back over my notes, the overwhelming factor that kept appearing is the "like factor" in that the Riesling was like a Sauvignon Blanc, the Viognier was like a Chardonnay, and the Dolcetto was like a Sangiovese. And I only tasted a small sampling of the wines which made me wonder how many of them were like other wines...

2003 Riesling, Cole Ranch, Mendocino County - Bone dry, supremely clean and crisp with a rich, citrus entry and more like a Sauvignon Blanc in its heightened acidity. $16.00

2002 Viognier, Russian River Valley - Mostly lemon up front in the nose but then showing some more integrated green fig aromas. Tangy entry, mineral mid-palate, and strident, stripped finish. $26.00

2003 Dolcetto, North Coast - Light in body and akin to a Sangiovese in its thin, cinnamon candy entry. The wine expands to show smoke but has a barely discernable cranberry finish. $18.00

2002 Malbec, Lake County - Inky black red color with a robust, meaty nose. Chewy entrance that dries a bit on the mid-palate. Overall a balanced wine. $18.00

Blackstone Winery ~ 8450 Sonoma Highway ~ Kenwood ~ CA ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-1999

Graziano/St. Gregory/Monte Volpe/Enotria - 116

Greg Graziano is a very, very busy man. Having inherited vineyards that were planted by his grandfather in 1918, he has successfully established FOUR different labels under which he produces an astounding 30 to 40 different wines (I truly never could get an exact number, so this is a guess).

The Saint Gregory label is the first one that was established. Under this label are wines of the Burgundian ilk. Monte Volpe means "fox mountain" and this brand is for the development of Tuscan red varietals and whites from Friuli. Enotria is Greek for "land of wine" and was developed to promote Piemonte varietals. Lastly, under the Graziano label, are the classic Mendocino varietals; Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs.

I was extremely fortunate that it was a quiet morning during my visit and the lovely lady behind the counter was patient with me as I tried through all the labels and all the wines. I was doubly more fortunate that instead of working through one label at a time, and possibly forcing me to jump to-and-from whites and reds, she laid them out in the order in which they should be tasted. My suggestion is to really only pick a few and not attempt to go through the twenty+ that I did...

Enotria Arneis, Mendocino; Uvaggio Isabella - Enotria is Greek for "Land of Many Grapes" and Arneis is a very unusual varietal with a Piedmont heritage. Pale yellow color with decidedly delightful green apple and pear aromas. Very crisp entry that brightens into a tang in the mid-palate. Long finish with pale herbs and bright fruit. $12.00

Monte Volpe Tocai Friulan, Mendocino - Grapefruit, ripe lemon, and sweet floral tones in the nose. Not overwhelming, but well-integrated. While there was a sweetness in the bouquet, the entry was an engaging spicy crispness. There was a hint of sweetness in the center, but a long, supple finish balances out. $10.00

2002 Monte Volpe Primo Bianco, Mendocino - A blend of Arneis, Tocai, Pinot Grigio, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay grapes. Clean lemon peel and faint tropical notes in the nose. Clean and easy with a brightness of peach and a slightly creamy finish. $10.00

Graziano Rose of Carignane - Intensely delightful aroma of sweet red apples and strawberries. Great acidity and long, structured finish. Too much fun! $12.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Potter Valley - Brownish tinge around a bricky orange/red tone. Warm strawberry and earthy dark fruit aromas. Surprisingly sweet tones in its core with a balanced, even finish that is engaging. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Mendocino - Slightly oxidized with a hint of hospital smell. Thin red fruit with a metallic finish. $16.00

2002 St. Gregory Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, Romani Vineyards - A more bretty example of Pinot with dusty, dried twigs in front of mature strawberry flavors. $22.00

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Mendocino - Decidedly cinnamon tones along with the bright, acidic fruit. Easy and relatively simply. $16.00 Note: This wine was tasted blind along side the following -- I was only told that one was bio-dynamic and one was not. Seemed I preferred the bio-dynamic Sangiovese:

2001 Monte Volpe Sangiovese, Bio-Dynamic, Fox Creek Vineyard - Rustic and spicy in structure with an engaging hint of a spicy, candied apple. Tangy entry with some dried floral notes just hidden, but more engaging.

2001 Monte Volpe Primo Rosso - A blend of Barbera, Zinfandel, and Dolcetto. Dark, dusty spice with dried floral qualities. Sweet-like mouth entry of bing cherry and blackberry with a rich, dark spicy mid-palate and dark, floral finish. No price available.

2000 Enotria Dolcetto, Mendocino - "Zinfandel in Merlot's clothing" was the description given to us by our pourer. Also known as "the little sweet one" because it is so easy to grow. A tease of spice behind the berry fruit. Balance acidity and very easy, fruity wine. Some hints of earth and vanilla on the finish. $14.00

2001 Enotria Barbera - Rustic with dark, dusty spice. Very engaging upon entry with dark cherry and dried lavender and heather in the core. 14.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Potter Valley, Kazmet Vineyards - Dusty cocoa tones with a hint of eucalyptus. Heightened tannic entry of jammy fruit. A tad metallic in the mid-palate with a dry, peppery finish. $24.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Robert Parker Ranch - Spicy dark fruit with ample brambleberry. Softer entry than the aromas portend. Spicy mid-palate and a juicy, full-bodied finish. $22.00

2002 Graziano Zinfandel, Mendocino - Surprisingly sweet nose with a sherry/port-like sweet entry. Liqueur-sweet berry that would make one think it was a late-harvest! $24.00

2004 Enotria Muscato - Engaging aromas of sweet green herbs, ripe pear, and fresh green apple. More green apple on the entry and mid-palate that is a bit sweeter than anticipated. A punctuated, acidic tang on the finish would make it a great cheese wine for dessert, served well-chilled. 12.00

Graziano Family of Wines ~ 13251 S. Highway 101, Ste. 3 ~ Hopland ~ CA ~ 95449 ~ 707-744-8466

Jepson - 108

When driving into Mendocino county, if you stay on Highway 101, Hopland is the first town that shows signs of civilization. Ukiah is the next town on the map, a little less than fifteen miles north of Hopland and while a single-lane, vineyard-flanked narrow passage, it is has a few roadside wineries worth visiting which sit in between the two hamlets. Jepson, on the west side of the road, is worthy of such a visit.

The large, industrial building is set far off the edge of the road, at the end of a dusty, unpaved road. The road belies the number of guests that are apparently expected as a surprisingly large number of parking spots await you -- but those could be for the wine-making facilities moreso than for a simple tasting room.

Not badgering the poor bloke behind the counter with too many historical questions, a quick perusal through their website provides some of the more intriguing bits of information about Jepson; they practice sustainable agriculture which is a tremendous plus for me, and they are one of the few wineries I have yet stumbled upon that along with a large array of still wine, also produces a sparkling and a brandy.

2002 Sauvignon Musque - An unusual grape to be sure -- a clone of Sauvignon Blanc not often seen as a 100% varietal, their limited 300 case production is fashionably light and easy with integrated aromas of lemon and grapefruit with white melon showing on the mouth entry with expands to a creamy finish. $13.00

2001 Viognier - Very engaging offering with white stone fruit and honey in the nose. A very smooth entry provides honeysuckle, pineapple, and a hint of spice in the mid-palate. A crisp, tangy finish proves quite delightful.

2003 Chateau d'Alicia - With 1.4% residual sugar, I would anticipate this 100% French Colombard to be sweeter than it was. Very pale straw tone, distinct green apple in aromas and flavors. Clean. Very, very clean feeling. $7.00

2001 Carignane - It is always a joy to find wineries bottling this unexpected Rhone varietal as a 100% offering. It was a tad sad then, that I found this wine to be oxidized, quite probably from having been open for more than a day. I could detect some light berry tones just revealing some dried floral qualities. Would love to try a fresh bottle. $14.00

2001 Syrah - Surprisingly dusty in aromas and flavors, this syrah shows earthy sensibilities in its initial aromas. Spicy entry gives way to some smokiness in the mid-palate with dusty cocoa near the end. $20.00

2003 Petite Sirah - Intense combinations of sweet soy sauce and barbecue meat intertwines in its aromas. The flavors open up to show smokiness, integrated behind the richness with a brambleberry finish. $24.00

Viognier Mistel - A non-vintage dessert wine made with 20% brandy, this golden straw essence enters the mouth with bright fruit of pears and honey but shows a finish that is both elegant but redolent with hazelnuts and cream. $18.00

Zinfandel Mistel - Another sweet wine that is orangey in color had a bit of oxidized aromas, with creamy creme brulee flavors and it slight bite on the finish. $18.00

Jepson Winery ~ 10400 South Highway 101 ~ Ukiah ~ CA ~ 95482 ~ 800-516-7342

Cole Bailey - 104

Having just spent the weekend learning about Mendocino appellations and wines, it seems odd that my first blog entry should be the last winery I visited. Cole Bailey Vineyards is not forefront in my mind for being the last visit of my trip, but because of the utter and complete charm in the wine and in the owner.

I actually met Bob Anderson the day before, at a mass tasting Mendocino wines at the 7th Annual Mendocino Wine Affair, where I met several dozen winery owners and winemakers. A lot of information gets lost in those events as palate shock sets in and mental overload takes place early on. But I was completely taken with the Sauvignon Blanc he was pouring at the festival and a bit saddened that he was sold out of his Cabernet Sauvignon. Then the artist in me was drawn to his piece of sales media, an elegant 4 1/2-inch square fold-out with Renaissance etchings watermarked behind stylish text with a splash of red here and there invoking a simple line-drawing of both glass and bottle.

It was on the following day, when I stopped in his tasting room in Hopland on my way home, that I discovered the intriguing story behind Sesquipedalian, the name of their wine. "Sesquipedalian" is the term used for one who is given to the use of long and ponderous vernacular. Instead of dumbing down a wine description for the masses, the Andersons instead are "smartening-up for the aficionado." But it is done in a manner so verbose as to be hilarious. Here, for example, is the text found upon the Sauvignon Blanc's front label:

Pigment-challenged to be sure. But this crisp, fruity white will lure tannin addicts from their mauve-drenched lairs faster than a Francophile dismisses Belgian chocolate. Like a 17th century painting of a bacchanalian feast, you know the kind, where young women in translucent garments reveal heaving pre-silicone nakedness and event the cherubs are amply endowed. You will find it at once satisfying and titillating. Sauvignon Blanc. Sesquipedalian. Blanc. Blanc. You're morte.

Here lies a winery whose growth I will anxiously watch with great anticipation. I only regret that my descriptions are so pedestrian and less worthy than the wine I tasted:
2004 Sesquipedalian Sauvignon Blanc - Clean aromas of key lime peel and white stone fruit with a whisper of spice. A very crisp entry that blossoms to reveal melon in  luscious hedonism. $18.00

Cole Bailey Vineyards ~ 13275 S. Highway 101 ~ Hopland ~ Ca ~ 95470 ~ 707-744-1230